Thursday 22 May 2014

Moose & Deb Cruise The Rhine


Moose & Deb Cruise The Rhine May 2014

Never having been to Europe I was thrilled when my adventurous Dad invited me to navigate the Rhine River with him on a boat cruise. One on one time has been elusive among the two of us. I would be one of a contingent of 10 travellers from my hometown.
My husband Eric said, “I hope neither one of you gets pushed out the cabin door into the river!”

Day One & Two Amsterdam

We arrived in Amsterdam to rain and wind. No spring dresses will be worn meandering down the beautiful, picturesque streets or pattering through the willowy halls of museums. We fitted ourselves out with layers; t shirts, sweaters, jackets, hats, umbrellas. Wishing I had packed boots and a down jacket. The weather was quickly over looked as we took in Holland’s sophisticated, modern capital and its rich and fascinating history. Amsterdam’s architecture, cafes, restaurants, streets, squares and canals averted our attention with its charms. Dad and I visited the Van Gogh museum, Anne Frank’s house, did a cruise of the inner city canals, bus toured around the city and had beer with a couple of charming, grizzled locals.

By 4 o’clock on the second day we were on our boat meeting the captain and crew and settling into our tight but comfy stateroom. We stayed on the second floor of three and rocked our nights to sleep at river level. Lying in bed I could see the stars as we moved by. If I listened carefully I could hear the swoosh of the river water under Darth’s breathing apparatus as we cruised along from one beautiful city to another.
We argued weather the curtains should stay open all night or shut and if the sliding doors to the river could be opened while we slept. Maybe he was worried I would push him out.

Day Two Koblenz-Rhine George- Rudesheim

Barbara, the cruise director, called us the loud Canadians but we took no offence. Its good to know how to laugh with your belly contorting, a quality passed down to me by my Dad. He lives his life to its fullest with honesty. When he is mad he can be grumpy and let you know, when he is happy everyone around him can’t help but be happy too!

Koblenz is 2,000 years old. The age of everything filled me with reverence. I loved it, touching the stone trying to absorb the energies of those who passed before me working, living, loving, fighting and dyeing in these beautiful places.

The dramatic Rhine Gorge is the most beautiful stretch of river and not to be missed, high rising cliffs with ancient castles. We sat watching mesmerized as we passed one magnificent castle after another while sipping fabulous crisp, dry German Riesling from the area.

In the quintessential Rhine Valley town of Rudesheim we visited Siegried’s Mechanical Musical Instrument Museum. We saw large and small self-playing instruments built from the 18th to the early 20th centuries. The town was delightful with narrow cobblestoned streets, open-air wine gardens and live music. We sipped hot drinks with local liquor, coffee and whipped European cream.

Day Three Cologne Germany

Cologne is one of Germany’s largest cities and capital of the Rhineland. It straddles both sides of the Rhine and is known for its soaring, twin-peeked gothic cathedral. We took a guided city walk that included a Jewish Heritage walk and a tour of the Cathedral. The experience was breathtaking! I was not expecting all the Roman sights and was struck by the Roman Games floor that had been unearthed. Instead of moving it a museum has been built over and around it and you can peer down through the glass to view it imagining the dancing and activities that might have happened on it. The Jewish town being unearthed right now dating back to Roman times was also a highlight to take in and I wished I had more time to stay and absorb the history and culture. Dad and I walked together over the cobblestones back to our ship.

Day Five Mainz & Heidelberg

This morning I woke up again at 4 a.m. and quietly slipped out of our room. The rain had stopped the day before and the sky was clear except for a large, full, yellow paper moon. I went outside up to the top deck and spent an hour walking the deck as I watched the moon go down and the sun rise up. I watched as we smoothly maneuvered the confluence of the Rhine and Main Rivers and pulled into Mainz with origins dating to around 38BC. By these standards my 51-year-old self and 83-year-old dad are merely spring chickens.

A local guide walked us around Mainz along the river, through the old town, and to the captivating Gutenberg Museum. I could have spent much more time at the museum learning about Gutenberg, the man who invented modern printing and soaking in the ancient printing presses and books.

In the afternoon we travelled to Heidelberg, home of the oldest University in Germany and visited the imposing ruins of Heidelberg Castle. The castle towers magnificently over the city. Standing in the castle surrounded by stone it was easy to envision castle life, the comings and goings of its inhabitants.

Day 6 Strasbourg France

Strasbourg sits on the border of France and Germany blending the cultures of both countries. It is the capital of the Alsace region and seat of the Council of Europe and European Parliament. We visited the red sandstone Gothic Cathedral with its ancient murals, stained-glass windows and fascinating astronomical clock.  Sat at Christian’s Patisserie eating cake and sipping hot chocolate. We also toured the La Petite France district; exploring the large historic square in the heart of medieval Strasbourg. We took a bus excursion into the Alsace wine country and tasted four unique wines to the region. The most interesting part was driving through the medieval fortressed towns and their beautiful stone gates to reach the winery.

Day 7 Colmar & Breisach

Today we started in Colmar the birthplace of the father of The Statue of Liberty. Colmar is a beautiful small French town. A maze of cobble stoned streets lined with centuries old half-timbered houses. I bought cheese and a croissant at a local market.

In the afternoon we took a bus tour through the Black Forest. I felt I must have been moving through a movie scene, as the landscape was so picturesque and pristine. Green pastures, thick dark forest, wild flowers abundant along the roads, bubbling streams and at the top black forest cake, cherry schnapps and cookoo clocks created by a local wood carver.
To say we were tired in the evening would be an understatement.

Meals on the Ship were delightful, mornings and lunch a buffet and evenings 4-5 course meals with wine.

Before dinner cocktails in the lounge, dinner in the dining room and back to the lounge for conversation about our days and dancing if you could muster any energy.  

Dad started out a little stiff in Amsterdam, possibly the flight and cold wet weather, he refused to miss a single excursion the whole trip and was noticeably nimbler by our last day on board. The second night we even managed a few dances that left the boat a twitter and had the American’s questioning me during the next day’s tour if he was my partner. I laughed and replied no my soon to be 84 year old Dad.

Dad, I had the trip of a lifetime with you. You opened my eyes to Europe. Eric is in trouble now because soon I will want to return! Thank-you for the gift! I will always remember.

Eric was happy: neither of us got pushed out the cabin door into the Rhine!


 Moose soaking in the ambiance!